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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.170



RECUMBENT PAST HISTORY
     Why are recumbents such a rare sight?  Space age technology?  New
type of bicycle?  Not really, recumbent bicycles actually go back as
far as the mid to late 1800's with the Macmillan Velocopede and the
Challand Recumbent.  In the 1930's, a series of events took place that
changed bicycling history.  A French second category professional
track cyclist named Francois Faure rode the Velocar, a two wheeled
recumbent bicycle designed and built by Charles Mochet, to
record-shattering speeds, breaking both the mile and kilometre records
of the day.  This created a storm of controversy within the U.C.I.
(United Cycliste International), bicycle rating's governing body.  The
debate centred on whether the Velocar was a bicycle and were these
records legal?  In 1934 they ruled against the Mochet-Faure record,
banning recumbent bicycles and aerodynamic devices from racing.  Were
U.C.I. members worried that the recumbent bicycle would displace the
conventional design?  Did they realize this would freeze bicycle and
human-powered vehicle development for the next forty years?  This is
why bicycles of taday look very similar to the Starkey and Sutton
Safety (upright/conventional) of 1885.  Just think where bicycle
technology would be today if the U.C.I. decision had gone the opposite
way.

MODERN RECUMBENT HISTORY
     Recumbent development was fairly quiet until the late 1960's.  Dan
Henry received some media attention for his long wheelbase design in
1968.  In the early 1970's, the human-powered revolution was starting up
on both the U.S. east coast by David Gordon, designer of the Avatar, and
on the west coast by Chester Kyle.  These pioneers recognized the need
for further development of human-powered vehicles. In the late 1970's
and early 1980's, this lead to the first commercial recumbent bicycle
designs such as the Avatar, Easy Racer and Hypercycle.  In 1990, the
Recumbent Bicycle Club of America was founded by Dick Ryan who currently
manufactures the Ryan Vanguard and was also involved with the Avatar
project in the early 1980's.  In 1988 recumbent promoter Robert Bryant
got his start writing "Recumbent Ramblings," a column for "HPV News."
In the summer of 1990, Robert founded the "Recumbent Cyclist Magazine,"
and in a short two years, RCM has become the source for recumbent bicyle
information in the world today.

SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION


RECUMBENT CYCLIST MAGAZINE
17560-B6-140th Ave SE, Ste 341
Renton WA 98058

__$2 Info-Pak/recumbent manufacturer list
__$5 Current sample issue with info-pak/list
__$20 USA Bulk Mail Subscription
__$25 USA First Class Mail Subscription Rush Service
__$30 Canada Air Mail
__$35 Worldwide Air Mail (USA funds) (anywhere outside USA/CAN)
__$50 Junior Supporter (includes 3 copies of each issue, mailed first
    class
__$100 RBCA Supporter (includes 10 copies of each issue mailed Priority)


BACK ISSUE ORDERING INFO

-Back issues are mailed 3rd class postage. (allow 4 weeks for delivery.)
-First Class Mail/Rush Service - add $.50 per issue.
-Canadian Air Mail/Rush Service - add $1.00 per issue.
-Worldwide Air Mail - add $2.00 per issue.
-Super-Rush Service?  We can do FEDEX overnight C.O.D.

$4.00  __RC#2  Flevo & CSPC "Poor Man's Composite"
$4.00  __RC#3  DH5000 LWB Road Test
$4.00  __RC#4  Ryan Vanguard Road Test/F-40/Flevo
$4.00  __RC#5  Linear LWB Road Test/Omega HPV/HPV Design Info
$4.50  __RC#6  Easy Racer Road Test
$4.50  __RC#7  Lightning P-38 Road Test
$4.50  __RC#8  1992 Recumbent Buyers Guide
$4.50  __RC#9  A.T.P. R-20 SWB Road Test
$4.50  __RC#10 Thebis Trike Road Test
$4.50  __RC#11 Counterpoint Presto Road Test
$4.50  __RC#12 Rans Road Test (available 9/92)
$4.50  __RC#13 Trice Road Test (Available 11/92)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 1/93)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 3/93)
$4.50  __RC#15 (Available 5/93)

===========================================================================

Commuting

How to deal with your clothes

When you commute by bike to work, you'd probably like to have clean
clothes that don't look like they've been at the bottom of your closet
for a couple of years.  Here are some suggestions for achieving this
goal:

  Take a week's worth of clothes to work ahead of time and leave them
  there.  You'll probably have to do this in a (gasp!) car.  This
  means that you'll need room in your office for the clothes.

  Carefully pack your clothes in a backpack/pannier and take them to
  work each day.  It has been suggested that rolling your clothes
  rather than folding them, with the least-likely to wrinkle on the
  inside.  This method may not work too well for the suit-and-tie
  crowd, but then I wouldn't know about that.  :-)

I use the second method, and I leave a pair of tennis shoes at work so
I don't have to carry them in.  This leaves room in my backpack for
a sweatshirt in case it's a cool day.

===========================================================================

Cold Weather Cycling

Pete's Winter Cycling Tips  (Pete Hickey  [e-mail])

I am a commuter who cycles year round.  I have been doing it
for about twelve years.  Winters here in Ottawa are
relatively cold and snowy.  Ottawa is the second coldest
capital in the world.  The following comments are the
results my experiences.  I am not recommending them, only
telling you what works for me.  You may find it useful, or
you may find the stupid things that I do are humorous.

PRELUDE

Me:

I am not a real cyclist.  I just ride a bicycle.  I have
done a century, but that was still commuting.  There was a
networking conference 110 miles away, so I took my bicycle.
There and back. (does that make two centuries?)  I usually
do not ride a bicycle just for a ride.  Lots of things I say
may make real cyclists pull out their hair.  I have three
kids, and cannot *afford* to be a bike weenie.

People often ask me why I do it....  I don't know.  I might
say that it saves me money, but no.  Gasoline produces more
energy per dollar than food. (OK, I suppose if I would eat
only beans, rice and pasta with nothing on them.... I like
more variety) Do I do it for the environment?  Nah!  I never
take issues with anything.  I don't ride for health,
although as I get older, I appreciate the benefits.  I guess
I must do it because I like it.


Definitions

Since words like "very", "not too", etc. are very
subjective, I will use the following definitions:

    Cold : greater than  15 degrees F
    Very cold : 0 through 15 Degrees F
    Extreme cold : -15 through 0 degrees F
    Insane cold: below -15 degrees F


Basic philosophy

I have two:

    1) If its good, don't ruin it, if its junk you
       needn't worry.

    2) I use a brute force algorithm of cycling: Peddle
       long    enough, and you'll get there.

Bicycle riding in snow and ice is a problem of friction:
Too much of the rolling type, and not enough of the sideways
type.


Road conditions:

More will be covered below, but now let it suffice to say
that a lot of salt is used on the roads here.  Water
splashed up tastes as salty as a cup of Lipton Chicken soup
to which an additional spool of salt has been added. Salt
eats metal.  Bicycles dissolve.

EQUIPMENT:

Bicycle:

Although I have a better bicycle which I ride in nice
weather, I buy my commuting bikes at garage sales for about
$25.00. They're disposable.  Once they start dissolving, I
remove any salvageable parts, then throw the rest away.

Right now, I'm riding a '10-speed' bike.  I used to ride
mountain bikes, but I'm back to the '10-speed'.  Here's why.
Mountain bikes cost $50.00 at the garage sales.  They're
more in demand around here. Since I've ridden both, I'll
comment on each one.

The Mountain bikes do have better handling, but they're a
tougher to ride through deep snow.  The 10-speed cuts
through the deep snow better.  I can ride in deeper snow
with it, and when the snow gets too deep to ride, its easier
to carry.

Fenders on the bike?  Sounds like it might be a good idea,
and someday I'll try it out.  I think, however, that
snow/ice will build up between the fender and the tire
causing it to be real tough to pedal.  I have a rack on the
back with a piece of plywood to prevent too much junk being
thrown on my back.

I would *like* to be able to maintain the bike, but its
tough to work outside in the winter.  My wife (maybe I
should write to Dear Abbey about this) will not let me bring
my slop covered bicycle through the house to get it in the
basement.  About once a month We have a warm enough day that
I am able to go out with a bucket of water, wash all of the
gunk off of the bike, let it dry and then bring it in.

I tear the thing down, clean it and put it together with
lots of grease.  I use some kind of grease made for farm
equipment that is supposed to be more resistant to the
elements.  When I put it together, I grease the threads,
then cover the nuts, screws, whatever with a layer of
grease.  This prevents them from rusting solidly in place
making it impossible to remove.  Protection against
corrosion is the primary purpose of the grease.  Lubrication
is secondary. remember to put a drop of oil on the threads
of each spoke, otherwise, the spokes rust solidly, and its
impossible to do any truing

Outside, I keep a plastic ketchup squirter, which I fill with
automotive oil (lately its been 90 weight standard
transmission oil).  Every two or three days, I use it to re-
oil my chain and derailleur, and brakes.  It drips all over
the snow beneath me when I do it, and gets onto my
'cuffs'(or whatever you call the bottom of those pants.
See, I told you I don't cycle for the environment.  I
probably end up dumping an ounce of heavy oil into the snow
run-off each year.


Clothing

Starting at the bottom, on my feet I wear Sorell Caribou
boots. These are huge ugly things, but they keep my feet
warm.  I have found that in extreme to insane cold, my toes
get cold otherwise. These boots do not make it easy to ride,
but they do keep me warm (see rule 2, brute force).  They do
not fit into any toe-clips that I have seen.  I used to wear
lighter things for less cold weather, but I found judging
the weather to be a pain.  If its not too cold, I ride with
them half unlaced.  The colder it gets, the more I lace
them, and finally, I'll tie them.

Fortunately, wet days are not too cold, and cold days are
not wet.  When its dry, I wear a pair of cycling shorts, and
one or two (depending on temp and wind) cotton sweat pants
covering that.  I know about lycra and polypro (and use them
for skiing), but these things are destroyed by road-dirt,
slush and mud.(see rule 1 above).  I save my good clothes
for x-country skiing.

An important clothing item in extreme to insane cold, is a
third sock.  You put it in your pants.  No, not to increase
the bulge to impress the girls, but for insulation.
Although several months after it happens it may be funny,
when it does  happens, frostbite on the penis is not funny.
I speak from experience!  Twice, no less!  I have no idea
of what to recommend to women in this section.

Next in line, I wear a polypro shirt, covered by a wool
sweater, covered by a 'ski-jacket' (a real ugly one with a
stripe up the back.  The ski jacket protects the rest of my
clothes, and I can regulate my temperature with the zipper
in front.

I usually take a scarf with me.  For years I have had a fear
that the scarf would get caught in the spokes, and I'd be
strangled in the middle of the street, but it has not yet
happened.  When the temp is extreme or colder, I like
keeping my neck warm.  I have one small problem.  Sometimes
the moisture in my breath will cause the scarf to freeze to
my beard.

On my hands, I wear wool mittens when its not too cold, and
when it gets really cold, I wear my cross-country skiing
gloves (swix) with wool mittens covering them.  Hands sweat
in certain areas (at least mine do), and I like watching the
frost form on the outside of the mittens.  By looking at the
frost, I can tell which muscles are working.  I am amused by
things like this.

On my head, I wear a toque (Ski-hat?) covered by a bicycle
helmet. I don't wear one of those full face masks because I
haven't yet been able to find one that fits well with eye
glasses.  In extreme to insane cold, my forehead will often
get quite cold, and I have to keep pulling my hat down.  The
bottoms of my ears sometimes stick out from my hat, and
they're always getting frostbitten. This year, I'm thinking
of trying my son's Lifa/polypro balaclava. Its thin enough
so that it won't bother me, and I only need a bit more
protection from frostbite.

I carry my clothes for the day in a knapsack.  Everything that
goes in the knapsack goes into a plastic bag.  Check the plastic
bag often for leaks.  A small hole near the top may let in water
which won't be able to get out.  The net result is that things
get more wet than would otherwise be expected.  The zippers will
eventually corrode.  Even the plastic ones become useless after
a few years.


RIDING:

In the winter, the road is narrower.  There are snow banks
on either side.  Cars do not expect to see bicycles.  There
are less hours of daylight, and the its harder to maintain
control of the bicycle. Be careful.

I don't worry about what legal rights I have on the road, I
simply worry about my life.  I'd rather crash into a snow
bank for sure rather than take a chance of crashing into a
car.  I haven't yet had a winter accident in 12 years.  I've
intentionally driven into many snow banks.

Sometimes, during a storm, I get into places where I just
can't ride.  It is sometimes necessary to carry the bicycle
across open fields.  When this happens, I appreciate my
boots.

It takes a lot more energy to pedal.  Grease gets thick, and
parts (the bicycle's and mine) don't seem to move as easily.
My traveling time increases about 30% in nice weather, and
can even double during a raging storm.

The wind seems to be always worse in winter.  It's not
uncommon to have to pedal to go down hills.

Be careful on slushy days.  Imagine an 8 inch snowfall
followed by rain.  This produces heavy slush.  If a car
rides quickly through deep slush, it may send a wave of the
slush at you. This stuff is heavy.  When it hits you, it
really throws you off balance.  Its roughly like getting a
10 lbs sack of rotten potatoes thrown at your back.  This
stuff could even knock over a pedestrian.

Freezing rain is the worst.  Oddly enough, I find it easier
to ride across a parking lot covered with wet smooth ice
than it is to walk across it.  The only problem is that
sometimes the bicycle simply slides sideways out from under
you.  I practice unicycle riding, and that may help my
balance.  (Maybe not, but its fun anyway)

Beware of bridges that have metal grating.  This stuff gets
real slippery when snow covered.  One time, I slid, hit an
expansion joint, went over the handle bars, over the railing
of the bridge.  I don't know how, but one arm reached out
and grabbed the railing.  Kind of like being MacGyver.


Stopping.

There are several ways of stopping.  The first one is to use
the brakes.  This does not always work.  Breaks can ice up,
a bit of water gets between the cable and its sheathing when
the warm afternoon sun shines on the bike. It freezes solid
after. Or the salt causes brake cables to break, etc.  I
have had brakes work on one corner, but stop working by the
time I get to the next.  I have several other means of
stopping.

The casual method.  For a stop when you have plenty of time.
Rest the ball of your foot on top of the front derailleur,
and *gradually* work your heel between the tire and the
frame. By varying the pressure, you can control your speed.
Be sure that you don't let your foot get wedged in there!

Faster method.  Get your pedals in the 6-12 O'clock
position. Stand up.  The 6 O'clock foot remains on the
pedal, while you place the other foot on the ground in front
of the pedal.  By varying your balance, you can apply more
or less pressure to your foot.  The pedal, wedged against
the back of your calf, forces your foot down more, providing
more friction.

Really fast!  Start with the fast method, but then dismount
while sliding the bicycle in front of you.  You will end up
sliding on your two feet, holding onto the bike in front for
balance.  If it gets *really* critical, throw the bike ahead
of you, and sit down and roll.  Do not do this on dry
pavement, your feet need to be able to slide.

In some conditions, running into a snow bank on the side
will stop you quickly, easily, and safely.  If you're going
too fast, you might want to dive off of the bicycle over the
side.  Only do this when the snow bank is soft.  Make sure
that there isn't a car hidden under that soft snow.  Don't
jump into fire hydrants either.


ETC.

Freezing locks.  I recommend carrying a BIC lighter.  Very
often the lock will get wet, and freeze solid.  Usually the
heat from my hands applied for a minute or so (a real minute
or so, not what seems like a minute) will melt it, but
sometimes it just needs more than that.

Eating Popsicles

Something I like doing in the winter is to buy a Popsicle
before I leave, and put it in my pocket.  It won't melt!  I
take it out and start eating it just as I arrive at the
University.  Its fun to watch peoples' expressions when they
see me, riding in the snow, eating a Popsicle.


You have to be careful with Popsicles in the winter.  I once
had a horrible experience.  You know how when you are a kid,
your parents told you never to put your tongue onto a metal
pole? In very cold weather, a Popsicle acts the same way.
If you are not careful, your upper lip, lower lip, and
tongue become cemented to the Popsicle.  Although this
sounds funny when I write about it, it was definitely not
funny when it happened.

Xref: bloom-picayune.mit.edu rec.bicycles.misc:1370 news.answers:4255
Path: bloom-picayune.mit.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!usc!news.service.uci.edu!nntpsrv
From: [e-mail] (Mike Iglesias)
Subject: Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting  Part 3/4
Nntp-Posting-Host: draco.acs.uci.edu
Expires: 15 Jan 93 00:00:00 GMT
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,news.answers
Approved: [e-mail]
Organization: University of California, Irvine
Lines: 1383
Supersedes: <[e-mail]>
References: <[e-mail]>
Date: 30 Nov 92 06:22:23 GMT
Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc

Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part3

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips  (Nancy Piltch  [e-mail])

Here are some clothing suggestions, mix and match as you wish:

Rain gear : I forked out the dollars for gore-tex when I did a week tour
  ... and I'm real glad I did. The stuff works reasonably as claimed,
  waterproof, and relatively breathable. (When the humidity is high, no
  fabric will work completely at letting sweat evaporate.) Unfortunately,
  typical prices are high. There are cheaper rainsuits, which I haven't tried.
  For short rides, or when the temperature is over about 50F, I don't
  usually wear the rain pants, as wet legs don't particularly bother me.

Waterproof shoe covers. When the weather gets icky, I give up on
  the cleats (I'm not riding for performance then, anyway) and put
  the old-style pedals back on. This is basically because of the
  shoe covers I have that work better with touring shoes. The ones
  I have are made by Burley, and are available from Bikecentennial,
  though I got them at a local shop. They are just  the cover, no
  insulation. I continue to use them in winter since they are windproof,
  and get the insulation I need from warm socks. These aren't neoprene,
  but rather some high-tech waterproof fabric.

Gaiters that hikers and cross-country skiers wear can help keep road
  spray off your legs and feet.

Toe clip covers. I got them from Nashbar; they are insulated and fit
  over the toe clips ... another reason for  going back to those pedals.
  They help quite a bit when the temperature goes into the 30's and below;
  they are too warm above that.

For temperatures in the 40's I usually find that a polypropylene shirt,
  lightweight sweater (mine is polypro) and wind shell work well; I use
  the gore-tex jacket, since I have it, but any light weight jacket
  is OK. I have a lightweight pair of nylon-lycra tights, suitable in
  the 50's, and maybe the 40's; a heavier pair of polypro tights, for
  40's, and a real warm pair of heavy, fleece-lined tights for colder
  weather. (I have been comfortable in them down to about 15-deg, which
  is about the minimum I will ride in.) My tights are several years
  old, and I think there are lots more variations on warm tights out now.
  I use thin polypro glove liners with my cycling gloves when it is a little
  cool; lightweight gloves  for a little bit cooler; gore-tex and thinsulate
  gloves for cold weather (with the glove liners in the really cold weather.)
  It is really my fingers that limit my cold weather riding, as anything
  any thicker than that limits my ability to work brake levers.
  (Note: this may change this year as I've just bought a mountain bike;
  the brake levers are much more accessible than on my road bike. It may
  be possible to ride with warm over-mitts over a wool or similar glove.)

When it gets down to the 20's, or if it's windy at warmer (!)  temperatures,
  I'll add the gore-tex pants from my rain suit, mostly as wind protection,
  rather than rain protection. Cheaper wind pants are available (either
  at bike shops or at sporting goods stores) that will work just as well
  for that use.

Warm socks. There are lots of choices; I use 1 pair of wool/polypropylene
  hiking socks (fairly thick). Then with the rain covers on my shoes to
  keep out wind, and (if necessary) the toe clip covers, I'm warm enough.
  There are also thin sock liners, like my glove liners, but I haven't
  needed them; there are also neoprene socks, which I've never tried,
  and neoprene shoe covers, which I've also never tried, and wool socks,
  and ski socks ...

I have a polypropylene balaclava which fits comfortably under my helmet;
  good to most of the temperatures I'm willing to ride in; a little too
  warm for temperatures above freezing, unless it's also windy. I also have
  an ear-warmer band, good for 40's and  useful with the balaclava for
  miserable weather. I also have a neoprene face mask; dorky looking, but
  it works. It is definitely too hot until the temperature (or wind) gets
  severe. I sometimes add ski goggles for the worst conditions, but they
  limit peripheral vision, so I only use   them if I'm desperate.

For temperatures in the 30's, and maybe 20's, I wear a polarfleece
  pullover thing under the outer shell. Combining that with or without
  polypro (lightweight) sweater or serious duty wool sweater gives a
  lot of options. Sometimes I add a down vest -- I prefer it *outside*
  my shell (contrary to usual wisdom) because I usually find it too
  warm once I start moving and want to unzip it, leaving the wind
  shell closed for wind protection. I only use the down vest when it's
  below about 15 F.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Studded Tires  (Nancy Piltch  [e-mail])

[A summary on studded tires compiled by Nancy.  A complete copy of
the responses she received, including some that give directions for
making your own studded tires, is in the archive.]

Studded tires do help, especially on packed snow and ice. On fresh snow
and on water mixed with snow (i.e. slush) they're not significantly different
from unstudded knobbies.

On dry pavement they are noisy and heavy, but can be used; watch out for
cornering, which is degraded compared to unstudded tires.

Several people recommend a Mr. Tuffy or equivalent with them; one
respondent says he gets more flats with a liner than without.

In the U.S. the IRC Blizzard tires are commercially available. They
can also be made.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Milk Jug Mud Flaps  (Chuck Tryon  [e-mail])

  Actually, I have used plastic like this (or in my case, some
  red plastic from a cheap note book cover -- it's heavier) to extend the
  bottom (rear) end of the front fender.  The Zephals are good, but they
  don't stop the splash from where the tire hits the road from getting on my
  feet.  What I did was cut a small triangle about 3in (~7cm) wide by 6in
  (~15cm) long, cut a hole in the top of it and the bottom end of the fender,
  and use a pop-rivet (with washers to prevent tear out) to attach it.  On a
  road bike, it should be end up being within a few inches of the road.  ATB's
  will need more clearance, so this won't work well off road.

        |   |
        |   |
       /| o |\   <----- rivet with washer on inside
      | \___/ |
      /       \   <---- flap fits inside of the fender, and follows the
     |         |        curve, which gives it some stiffness.
     |         |
     |         |
     \_________/
         | |
         | |     <----- bottom of tire
         \_/

===========================================================================

Touring

Touring supplies  (Scott "gaspo" Gasparian  [e-mail])

    Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week).  I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).

Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...


FOOD:
    Here, just whatever you normally consume.  If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour.  This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.

CLOTHING:
    Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts.  However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear.  Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
    A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended.  A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear.  If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.

FIRST-AID:
    Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists.  Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...

TOILETRIES:
    I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant.  That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff.  A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.

MISC:
    I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category.  Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps.  A piece of
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain.  Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.


TOOLS:
    Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from
civilization" range.  This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.

Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo.  If
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to
bring.  Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call.  I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger
one that actually removes the entire caliper.